HIKING ACATENANGO VOLCANO
We spent three weeks in Guatemala, visiting Antigua, Lake Atitlan, Semuc Champey, and Flores. We also took a short trip to Caye Caulker in Belize. Late July is definitely not the best time to visit Guatemala, but we did not regret it for a second. We first heard about the overnight volcano hike in Guatemala in 2021 when some friends traveled there. Their photos and stories were so amazing that we knew from that moment on we had to hike Acatenango. Three years later the time finally came, and we had no idea what we were really getting ourselves into.
CA Travelers and What to Pack for The Acatenango Hike
Firstly, we are not experienced hikers! We thought we were fit, but as soon as we started walking those first meters, we quickly realized that running a half marathon is completely different from this. Before Guatemala, we spent some time in Peru, where we did a day hike to the 7 Lagoons of Ausangate and also the very challenging 4-day, 3-night Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. That was pretty much all our experience. During the Salkantay trek, we met a Danish couple who already told us that the Acatenango hike would be even tougher than Salkantay and they recommended us CA travelers for our tour. The price is in the FAQ’s.
Just to be clear it is not the cheapest option but it came with several advantages. Gloves, winter jackets, sleeping bags, rain ponchos and food were all included. The best part was that their base camp is in the front row and every small wooden hut has an amazing view of Volcan de Fuego. But do not expect any luxury here as everything is very basic and minimalist.
The tour meeting point was 7:15 AM at Plenty Cafe next to the CA Travelers office, centrally located in Antigua, a three-minute walk from the famous arch. There, we met our group and enjoyed an included breakfast. Then, we drove together to their outer office where we got dressed and stored anything we did not need for the hike. At the site, you get a rain poncho, gloves, winter jacket, head lamp, sleeping bag liner, a Camelbak with three liters of water, and your lunchbox. You can carry all of this yourself — the Camelbak in front and your backpack (min. 40 L) on your back. An alternative is to hire a porter. More information can be found in the FAQ.
We drove about one hour from the agency in Antigua to the trailhead in Aldea La Soledad. There you can also rent walking sticks for 6.50 USD, which we highly recommend. They make a huge difference, so do not try to save money there. The Acatenango hike starts at an altitude of around 2,400 meters and covers 7.3 kilometers (about 4.5 miles), with an elevation gain of approximately 1,162 meters (about 3,815 feet) by the time you reach base camp.
The Trek to Acatenango Base Camp
And then the real adventure finally began. After just a few steps, you’ll probably find yourself thinking, “What have I gotten myself into?” The first part of the hike was definitely the hardest. The path was steep, but the great thing was that our international group kept each other motivated. Despite the effort, we still managed to have conversations along the way. We also took breaks regularly to catch our breath.
After hiking Acatenango for 2 hours and 45 minutes, it was time for a lunch break. The spot is simple with no chairs or tables but you do not need that because you came for an adventure and that is exactly what you will get. There are some dogs wandering around who are very interested in your food. We recommend giving them any leftovers. If you start sharing while you are eating word gets around quickly and soon you will have a whole pack of new dog friends.
Good news for you after the break the hike gets easier. It took us another two and a half hours to reach base camp with the last part being steep but fairly short. Unfortunately the weather took a turn for the worse after the break which is typical for this time of year. We pushed ourselves up meter by meter as the first raindrops started coming through the trees. At one point it started raining very hard, a thunderstorm rolled in, and the visibility became very poor, which noticeably dampened the mood in the group. Everyone was afraid we wouldn’t get to see anything.
Base camp was finally reached, and the feeling of relief took over. We had made it — for now. The Acatenango hike to base camp took us about five hours. We started hiking at around 10.45 in the morning and reached base camp at 4.30 in the afternoon. But reaching base camp does not necessarily mean your day is over. More on that soon. Unfortunately, the visibility was terrible, and we were all a bit disappointed. Our shoes were soaked, our pants were wet because the water had run down from the poncho, and the view was basically not there.
We settled into our small wooden hut, which was already fully prepared for us. Each bed had a pillow, a thick sleeping bag rated for minus six degrees Celsius, an extra blanket, and a surprisingly comfortable mattress about twelve centimeters thick. The entire campsite was already set up, so you do not need to carry any camping equipment yourself.
After drying our wet clothes by the campfire and drinking warm cacao, the big question came up. Who still had the energy and courage to hike to the top of Fuego Volcano, which takes nearly four more hours in total and costs an extra 25.00 USD?
We were tired, the weather was bad, and anyway we decided to go for it. At that moment we truly had no idea what we were getting ourselves into.
The Optional Sunset Hike to Volcan de Fuego
Volcan de Fuego is one of the most active volcanoes in Central America and erupts regularly. It has small eruptions almost every day. Of course, it was our goal to see the lava from as close as possible. The hike to Volcan de Fuego starts easy because it goes downhill. But soon we realized we would have to climb all of that back up later because the way back is the same. In the distance, we saw people walking up a steep mountain and thought, that looks intense. It turned out to be our path. Step by step we noticed the hike to base camp had been easy in comparison.
Since we started the hike around 5.30 in the evening, we were racing against the sunset because we really wanted to reach the top before it got dark. But there is no way to avoid hiking in the dark. On the way back it will be completely pitch black and you will definitely need your head lamp. Just like on the way to base camp we pushed ourselves uphill again. The path was narrow and more challenging, with large rocks along the way that we had to climb over from time to time.
Unfortunately, the visibility kept getting worse, which was not very motivating. But since we had already come so far, giving up was not an option. When we reached the top, we were inside a thick cloud and could hardly see anything.
We waited for a while and then decided as a group to start the way back. It was very depressing for us, and the hike back in the dark was very exhausting because you have to be even more careful. After almost four hours, we arrived at the camp and had our dinner.
We recommend bringing small snacks with lots of calories, like peanuts, to keep your energy up during the second hike.
After the second hike, we sat all down by the bonfire and enjoyed our dinner: spaghetti and garlic bread.
Then were so exhausted that we fell asleep immediately. The day had been beautiful even if not perfect but you cannot control nature. Then suddenly Vicky woke me up saying “Malte lava.” Finally we saw and heard it. Volcan de Fuego erupted with lightning striking in the background. This was a moment we will never forget. We had never seen anything like it. We didn’t manage to get the best photo this time, but to be honest, moments like this can’t really be captured in a picture.
But the tour was not over yet because the next morning there was another optional walk the Acatenango volcano hike.
Optional Sunrise Hike to the Acatenango Summit
The short night and the physically exhausting day before did not stop us from starting the sunrise hike on Acatenango. Our ascent began at 4 a.m., and ahead of us were 500 meters (about 1,640 feet) of elevation gain over 2.6 kilometers (1.6 miles), which we covered in one and a half hours. It may not sound like much, but the hard part is that you walk only on volcanic sand, sinking in with every step and slipping back. One step forward and two steps back. We had never experienced anything like it before.
We arrived at the top just in time for sunrise, and it was so worth it. The air was clear, extremely cold, and windy, and the beautiful colors of the sunrise filled the sky. We sat down and simply enjoyed the moment. From Acatenango, you can also see the climb we made the night before up Volcan de Fuego, and it almost made us feel sentimental.
The way back to base camp was a bit different from the way up but just as exciting and slippery. On some parts of the trail you could almost slide down and our shoes filled with volcanic rock and sand.
Once we arrived at base camp we had breakfast and then started the same path back down.
Hiking Down from Acatenango Base Camp to the Starting Point
Walking uphill is exhausting, but it is much easier on your joints like your knees and ankles than going downhill. After a while, you might start to feel some pain in your knees, so it is important not to overpace yourself. Along the way, we passed several groups coming in the opposite direction, and sometimes the path got a bit narrow.
After making it back down from the Acatenango hike, we returned our walking sticks and took the bus to CA Travelers’ outer office around 1 pm. There we were greeted with a refreshing smoothie and a voucher for Antigua Brewery, which we happily made use of later that evening.
Was the Acatenango Hike Worth It
In short, yes. The Acatenango hike was much more than just a hike. It was a physical and mental challenge that brought us closer together and allowed us to meet great people along the way. Of course we had hoped for better weather, but nature is beautiful no matter if there is rain, sun, clouds or clear skies. This hike is not for everyone. But if you enjoy pushing your limits and love raw nature, it is absolutely worth it. Be sure to bring the right gear and stay mentally prepared. For us, it was the most intense and unforgettable moments of our three weeks in Guatemala, and we would do it all over again.
FAQ
Our tour cost 90.00 USD per person, plus 25.00 USD for the volcán de fuego hike and 6.50 USD for renting walking sticks. Of course, tipping is extra and expected. Both the tip and the optional volcan de fuego hike need to be paid in cash.
The hike is challenging both physically and mentally. It involves steep ascents and can be tough at high altitude. A good level of fitness is recommended.
The best time is during the dry season, from November to April, when the weather is more predictable and clear skies are more likely.
The overnight hike usually takes about 5 to 7 hours to reach base camp, with an additional hike to Volcán de Fuego if chosen, and then a descent the next day.
Yes, if you go with a reputable tour operator such as CA Travelers and follow all safety guidelines. Weather and volcanic activity can still affect the conditions
No, you will need to carry all the water you need. You receive a filled camel bag at the outside office and can refill it at base camp.
Yes, a porter will carry a bag for you weighing up to 12 kilograms (about 26 pounds). The service costs 25.00 USD each way. It was really impressive to see them walk up the trail faster than we did, even with more weight.
Thanks For Reading
We truly hope our Acatenango hike in Guatemala inspired you to explore this amazing country for yourself. If you are planning your trip and wondering what to see, where to stay, or looking for a real local experience, we recommend checking out our three week Guatemala itinerary. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. We are always happy to help. We would also love to hear about your own experience in the comments below. If you found this article helpful, please consider sharing it to support our travel blog.
Vicky and Malte
